An Easy Walk (Day 9)
Today’s walk was largely uneventful. I set off early with John from the UK whom I had met at the B&B in Larrasoana. The hike itself was fairly flat and went through more vineyards and eventually just grassy fields. It was a dirt track and not especially challenging. We were lucky again with the weather (I fear we’re getting too lucky and when the weather does turn it will be a rude awakening) and it remained mild. Our conversations were thoughtful, interesting and the time flew by. I’m still trying to figure out why these types of conversations happen so easily out here. We weren’t necessarily bearing our souls to one another but there was a level of intimacy that one usually has with a long time friend. I wonder if it’s that all the preliminary stuff that bogs down a first time conversation doesn’t seem to happen here. Especially the work stuff. I have no idea what John does (or did, I believe he’s retired) or his financial status. I couldn’t tell you where he lives specifically (but it’s in the countryside in the UK) or what organizations or groups he might be a part of. Not knowing that had no bearing on our conversation and I would consider that I know him fairly well at this point and that he knows me. I would consider him a friend. Perhaps just having the time to take a peaceful 5 hour walk with someone is all that’s required. I’d like to make more time to do that when I get home.
I do like the fact that my easy hike is longer than any of my training hikes.
There’s always got to be one big hill. Must be Spanish law or something.
When we arrived in Santo Domingo de la Calzada I bid goodnight to John (although I suspect I will see him again down the road) and headed towards my accommodations. It was then that I realized, holy shit, there are still some shops open!! You see, when I arrive in the towns I’m staying in for the night it tends to be right in the middle of the siesta time. This can be anywhere from around 1:30-:200 to about 5:00 for shops and 7:00 for restaurants. Many of the times we walk into villages it’s like a scene from The Walking Dead. Everything is closed up and silent. And honestly, with the shuffling, staggering and groaning of the pilgrims I’m sure we look like zombies. So I’ve been making my way to my hostal, starting to rehydrate and just kind of hanging out and getting ready for the next day. The Spanish eat dinner crazy late. I’m talking 8-9pm. I was out to dinner night before last and there were people arriving at the restaurant at 9:30 with their small children. I’m sure folks get used to it (you’ve probably got a lot of energy after taking a 4 hour break in the middle of the day while i munch on a granola bar and drink tap water while staring longingly at your menu in the window, but I’m not bitter) but it’s not a great schedule for someone who has to get up in the morning to try and beat the heat on a 17 mile hike. Anyway, I was able to go to the market and get some snacks and drinks and got to the pharmacia. In Spain there is a drink called Aquarius (and yes, I do internally sing the song “Aquarius” from the musical Hair every single time I pick up a bottle. Thanks Mom for being a hippy and forcing that soundtrack on me during my formative years) and this amazing stuff is essentially a low sugar Gatorade. My body absolutely craves it so I was excited to grab a 1.5 liter bottle. Also, did you know that you can have a huge chocolate croissant for lunch? Consider that knowledge bomb dropped. Anyone who says that croissants are only for breakfast is wrong. And fascist. Also, I don’t have to live by their rules. I march to my own drummer. I color outside the lines. In short, I had a pastry for lunch. I also got to the pharmacia and picked up some Ibuprofen creme. My shin muscles (that’s a thing) hurt every evening because I’m an old man so I’m going to try this stuff out. Also, there is an Italian restaurant in the square. i have been enjoying the pilgrims menus but if I’m being honest I would kill for a pizza. You’re thinking to yourself, “pastry and a pizza?”. Yes, I’m going to have both and I don’t appreciate your judgement. Did you hike 13 miles today? I thought not. If you did, we’ll be at the pizza joint in Plaza de San Francisco in downtown Santo D at 7:30 and you’re welcome to join us.
The pictures from today are pretty boring but the walk wasn’t. If I’m being honest, I was busy enjoying my conversation and didn’t think to take many shots.
Yup, more vineyards.
I forget what you call this but it’s the big field that they grow grapes in
